Don’t let the lush tropical landscapes and cordial cock-a-doo doodler’s at the end of Key West’s U.S. Highway 1 fool you. A certain spooky element lurks just beneath the orchids and palm fronds.
The Calusa Indians were the first people who utilized Key West’s coral islands. They named it Cayo Hueso or “Bone Island”. Why? The island was their burial grounds, and since there wasn’t any soil to dig into, bodies were literally laid to rest on the surface. When Spanish explorers started showing up in the early 16th Century, they inevitably found a femur or a skull or two laying around. A couple hundred years later, the British took advantage of the natural deep-water port and set up a naval port between Cuba and Virginia. English-speaking sailors misinterpreted Cayo Hueso as “Key West,” which we use to this day.
Since it’s that time of the year for ghouls and all things ghosty, let’s check out my top 6 of the Conch Republic’s spookier locations.
1. Key West Cemetery
After a disastrous hurricane in October 1846, the Key West Cemetery was moved to the highest point on the island, some 16-feet above sea level in 1847 at its present location. Folks have been dying to get in ever since.
24 U.S. Navy sailors, some 17 unidentified, from the 1898 USS Maine explosion in Havana, Cuba rest eternally here. 266 out of the 354 crew members perished when the ship’s boilers blew up. These souls rest in Key West for a couple of reasons: 1. some families couldn’t afford to bring their loved one home for burial; and 2. the U.S. government wanted to bury our sailors and marines on U.S. soil, free of the scrutiny and rules of the Cuban government.
Several eternal residents left lasting epitaphs for us to question. B.P. “Pearl” Roberts was a local hypochondriac, who no one seemed to believe when her reoccurring, attention-seeking aches and pains flared up. Hours before her death she proclaimed, “I told you I was sick.” That’s an everlasting last taunt to her doubters. Resting forever in the same mausoleum is Gloria M. Russell, who at the age of 74, passed away stating, “I’m just resting my eyes.” And the Conch Republic’s cemetery wouldn’t be complete without an actual shell marker. The giant gastropod marks Sir Peter Anderson’s final resting place, stating “He had fun!” As the first Secretary General of the Keys’ Conch Republic for 25 years, Anderson promoted an annual 10-day party celebrating the Keys’ self-proclaimed independence from the U.S. of A. After 10 day stretches of parades, parties, and seemingly endless libations, I’m sure he had a blast!
Another well-known decedent is Joseph S. Russell, aka Josie to his close friends and Sloppy Joe to the rest of the world. Joe, a native conch, met author Ernest Hemingway in the early 1930’s when Hemingway needed a fishing guide. Hemingway later became a regular fixture at Joe’s bar, imbibing on daiquiris, whiskey, or whatever everyone else was partaking in. Hemingway encouraged Joe to change the name of the bar in 1933 from “The Blind Pig” to “Sloppy Joe’s”. The latter was also the name of a Cuban bar Joe and Hemingway frequented on their deep-sea fishing trips.
2. Original Sloppy Joe’s Bar and Current Capt. Tony’s Saloon
At the intersection of Greene and Duvall Streets, you’ll notice the foot traffic increases around two well-known establishments. Sloppy Joe’s Bar sits to the left, with Captain Tony’s Saloon on the right. Both were well-known watering holes once owned and operated by the aforementioned Joe Russell.
Before Capt. Tony’s and Sloppy Joe’s existed, the property at 428 Greene Street was built in 1851 as the city’s ice house and morgue. During this time, a lone tree grew up on the premises and became the island’s only hanging tree. After the convicted were hung, their body was housed in the adjacent morgue. When yet another devastating hurricane struck Key West in 1856, the ice house/morgue was washed away. Any bodies that were in it were also gone. However, the grave marker for one Elvira Drew remained. Elvira Drew’s unfortunate end came when she suffered a mental breakdown. After finding out her abusive husband was drinking and having a tawdry affair, Elvira went to the speakeasy on site in search of him. Elvira entered the ladies room, murdered and left her infant child; and continued her spiteful search for the sinning spouse. After being found, Elvira was hoisted by the hangman on this tree and placed on ice in the morgue. Her body likely washed away in that hurricane.
Another local woman, nicknamed the “Lady in Blue,” was hung here before the buildings enclosed the tree. Her name is unknown, but like Elvira had a mental come apart. The Lady in Blue, however, murdered her two sons and husband. The reason is unknown, but an angry congregation of conchs lynched her in the murderous bloody blue dress she was wearing. Her spectral remains, often a passing blue blur, was the first reported ghost sighting in this building.
In 1938, the bar’s landlord raised the weekly rent by $1. Joe Russell refused to pay this, so he encouraged his patrons with beer to help move the entire bar in the middle of the night to its current location at 201 Duvall Street. The building’s current iteration, Capt. Tony’s Saloon, was purchased by one Captain Tony Tarracino in 1958. In the 1970’s, singer/songwriter Jimmy Buffett started his famous career at Capt. Tony’s by singing for tequila. He would later immortalized Capt. Tony and the bar in his song, “Last Mango in Paris.”
3. Key West Theater
Now a 255-seat venue for theater and art festivals, the property here was originally the First Baptist Church of Key West in 1848. Legend goes that in 1866, the church’s pastor was finally fed up with his wife. The pastor believed she was cheating with a church deacon. After 6 months of hearing hushed gossip, the pastor went to the church one night thinking she was inside with her lover. The pastor barred the doors of the wooden building, doused it with kerosene, and lit a match. Legend then takes a ghastly twist stating the wife was leading a children’s choir practice at the time of the fire. Allegedly, everyone in the church was burned to death. Since 1866, a new building was erected with a variety of purposes. Ghost tours today encourage participants (like us) to take multiple photos in rapid succession above the current Key West Theater in the hopes of capturing an orb. I did. (Can you see the face?)
4. Fort East Martello Museum & Robert the Doll’s Artist’s House
Outside of the Key West International Airport near Smather’s southern beach is the Fort East Martello Museum. The fort was originally built in 1862 as a Civil War outpost, but became the Key West Art & Historical Society’s first museum in 1950. Today the museum is a detailed timeline of the historical significances of the area. One of these oddities is Robert the Doll, the world’s most haunted doll.
To the unknowing visitor, Robert appears to be a well-loved childhood toy. Standing as tall as a young child at 40-inches and wearing his owner’s sailor suit, Robert was a handmade gift for Robert Eugene “Gene” Otto. Legends surround the gift and whether or not it was cursed by Gene’s nanny. Growing up, when something naughty occurred, Gene frequently said Robert did it. Infatuated with his toy, Gene demanded Robert have his own room in the attic, complete with toys and furniture for a time. Gene and Robert were inseparable and so much so, that in adulthood Gene’s wife wanted the doll put away in storage. Family and visitors reported hearing voices talking or giggling, shuffling of furniture and objects, and items moved when no living person was near Robert. Children and passer-byers also reported seeing Robert moving between windows in the attic. All of this occurred in what’s now called The Artist’s House. It’s currently a bed-and-breakfast named for Gene’s artistic family. You can book a stay here.
But before you think you can just snap a photo of Robert at the East Martello Museum, you first must ask his permission. If you don’t, then horrible things can occur. I graciously asked and put it into writing on the museum chalkboard, so we’re good. Thanks again Robert!
5. The Trev-Mor Hotel and Hemingway’s First Apartment
Built in 1919, the Trev-Mor Hotel was one of Key West’s first hotels. Now known as Casa Antigua, the property housed a Ford dealership on the first floor. In April 1928, Hemingway and his first wife Pauline were in Key West on their honeymoon. Pauline’s rich uncle purchased a touring car for them, to be picked up at the Trev-Mor Ford dealership. Unfortunately, the vehicle wasn’t available at their arrival. The couple spent the next two weeks waiting for their car to arrive, and in anticipation of driving up Highway 1 to Miami. Hemingway finished writing A Farewell to Arms in their 2nd floor room. The couple went on to purchase their famous home on Whitehead Street two years later, which is now home to their 6-toed cat descendants. Ghost tour guides say that Hemingway’s ghost can be seen in the window of his former 2nd story apartment.
6. Dean Lopez Funeral Home and Carl von Cosel’s Affair with Elena Milagro de Hoyos
Picture this. Key West. April 1930. Creepy old German medical technician meets young sick Cuban woman. He falls infatuatedly in love. She doesn’t. Guy provides medical hokey medical treatment and proposes marriage. Beautiful girl declines offer and dies of tuberculosis. Sadly, this is the gist of what occurred over the next year. Carl von Cosel met Elena Milagro de Hoyos at the Key West Marine Hospital, and thought she was his preordained celestial love. After attempting to use his eternal love, elixirs and electroshock treatment to cure her tuberculosis, von Cosel was devastated by Elena’s death.
von Cosel was so infatuated with Elena that he purchased/built an above-ground vault in the Key West Cemetery, keeping the only key to it. He visited Elena at all hours, especially at night. Sometime in April 1933, von Cosel hauled Elena’s body out of the mausoleum on a toy wagon and into his home. There, he used a combination of wires and coat hangers to keep her body together. Rags were used to stuff her body and maintain her shape. Silk dipped in wax was placed over decomposing skin. Scented oils helped mask the odious smells. Decayed eyes were replaced with glass ones. von Cosel changed his beloved’s clothes often and with fancy jewelry. Eventually in 1940, Elena’s sister heard macabre rumors von Cosel was sleeping with her sister’s body.
When confronted, Elena’s body was discovered and immediately taken to the Dean Lopez Funeral Home. After examination, Elena’s body was placed on public display where almost 6,800 viewers gazed in disbelief. Elena’s body was reinterred in the Key West Cemetery, but this time in secrecy. Only the Dean Lopez family knows of her final whereabouts. von Cosel was never charged with his crimes as the statute of limitations had run out and no evidence of necrophilia was proven. He moved away from Key West to Zephyrhills, Florida, and later died in 1952, again in the arms of another Elena effigy, his forever love.
Today’s recipe, Zombie Cake, is a twist on a classic lime, rum-soaked cake inspired by the Tiki cocktail called a Zombie. Every time we visit Key West, we inevitably find our way to the Tiki House. Like everything else in this laid back, reinventing tropical town, Tiki House’s location has moved since the pictures below were taken.
The Zombie cocktail was originally created by Don The Beachcomber in 1934’s at his Hollywood, CA Tiki bar and restaurant. It’s a potent blend of various ingredients–rums, lime juice, falernum, bitters and cinnamon syrup to name a few. What sets the Zombie apart is the presentation the Tiki House provides. A hollowed out lime, filled with over-proofed rum, is floated on top of the prepared cocktail and set on fire. Zombie dust, aka cinnamon, is sprinkled on top of the flames for added effects. Be careful as one of these show-stopping drinks may send you into a zombie-like state. The recipe for this cocktail is here.
The Zombie Cake is a rift on the drink, as mentioned above. It’s moist and full of Key lime, rum and spice flavors of cloves and ginger. The secret behind this cake is the rum soak and Key lime poured over the baked and soaked Bundt cake. Although these two extra add-ons might seem to put the cake over the top, they’re totally worth it. They both help maintain the boozy, spicy citrusy flavors that make up this cocktail inspired cake. Like it’s potent libation cousin, enjoy this Zombie Cake with caution and with those of the 21+ crowd. Cheers!
Zombie Cake
Inspired by the Zombie, a classic Tiki cocktail, this moist bundt cake is the semi-solid equivalent to its libation namesake. Clove and ginger spices enhance the Key lime and rum flavors that make up the vanilla cake base, rum soak, and glaze. Use either light or dark rum in this recipe. Enjoy responsibly as a slice packs a punch. But don’t worry, it won’t turn you into a Zombie!
- Prep Time: 20-30 Minutes
- Cook Time: 45-55 Minutes
- Total Time: About 1-1/2 Hours + Overnight Chill Time
- Yield: 10–12 Servings 1x
Ingredients
For the Rum Cake:
2 c. all-purpose flour
1–1/2 c. granulated sugar
3.4 oz. instant pudding mix
2 tsp. baking powder
1 tsp. salt (table, kosher or sea)
1/4 tsp. of both ground cloves and ground ginger
1 stick (8 T.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 c. vegetable or canola oil
1/2 c. milk (whole or 2%), at room temperature
4 large eggs, at room temperature
1/2 c. rum (light or dark)
2 tsp. vanilla
1/4 c. key lime juice
Zest of 1 lime (about 1 tsp. zest)
For Rum Soak:
1 stick (8 T.) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 c. granulated sugar
1/4 c. water
1/4 tsp. salt (table, kosher or sea)
1/2 c. rum (light or dark)
1 tsp. vanilla
2 T. key lime juice
Pinch of both ground cloves and ground ginger
For Key Lime Glaze:
1–1/2 c. powdered sugar, sifted
2–3 T. key lime juice
Zest of 1/2 lime (about 1/2 tsp.)
Instructions
To Make Rum Cake:
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Liberally spray a 10-12 cup Bundt pan with nonstick baking spray (like Bakers Joy); or grease and flour it. Set aside.
Using a hand-held or standing mixer, combine flour, sugar, pudding mix, baking powder, salt, butter and oil until well-incorporated and sandy looking. With mixer on low, gradually add milk and eggs. Increase mixer to medium high and beat until smooth, scraping down sides and bottom of bowl. Stir in rum, vanilla, Key lime juice, and zest. Pour batter into prepared pan and smooth top. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes or until toothpick inserted near center comes out clean. Remove from oven and let cool on a wire rack for about 5 minutes.
Poke cake all over with a long skewer like a chopstick. Gradually pour quarter-amounts of Rum Soak over cake. Allow liquid to soak in before adding more. Cover the Bundt pan with plastic wrap and allow to sit overnight at room temperature or in the fridge.
When ready to serve, turn cake out onto serving plate. If cake doesn’t turn out immediately, place pan into a warm oven (about 200-250 degrees F) for about 5-10 minutes to loose the rum soak. Pour glaze over cake and serve. Leftover cake can be covered with plastic wrap and kept at room temperature for up to 3 days, or stored in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
To Make Rum Soak:
While cake bakes, in a saucepan over medium heat, combine all ingredients except vanilla and lime juice. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, then reduce heat to low. Allow rum syrup to simmer and thicken slightly, about 10-15 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla and Key lime juice. Pour over baked, poked and slightly cooled cake.
To Make Key Lime Glaze:
In a medium-sized bowl, whisk all ingredients together until smooth. Glaze should be slightly thick (like the consistency of cold heavy cream). Pour over rum cake.
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