Southern Butter Rolls & My Eskimo Mama

Since 1914, Americans have honored Moms from shore-to-shore on the first Sunday in May. Our national celebration of all-thing mother traces back to Julia Ward Howe, a suffragette and author of the anthem “Battle Hymn of the Republic.” Julia Ward Howe encouraged mothers everywhere in 1870 to band together for world peace. About the same time in 1868, Ann Reeves Jarvis from West Virginia started a “Mothers’ Friendship Day.” Known for her social activism during the U.S. Civil War, Ann Reeves Jarvis felt this day promoted good-will between the mothers of former Union and Confederate soldiers. But our modern-day inception goes back even further! To ancient Greece and Rome, where Christian festivals celebrated “Mothering Sunday.” Go Moms!

This particular Mother’s Day is peculiarly special. It’s also my parents’ 49th wedding anniversary. In honor of both Mom and Pop, I’m literally rolling out a Southern Butter Rolls recipe I chanced upon at The Kitchn. Southern Butter Rolls are baking powder biscuits meet cinnamon rolls drenched in custard. Wha-what?! The origins of the Southern Butter Rolls are loosely based in the Mid-South region near Memphis, Tennessee, where we currently live. There’s no exact recipe, as it’s up to each mother-of-necessity maker to use up whatever biscuit scraps, milk, sugar and spices are handy at the time. The recipe I’m sharing is slightly adapted from The Kitchn’s recipe (link here).

In my Bodacious Baking Powder Biscuit post, I explained how my Pop is the master of baking powder biscuits. He frequently makes baking powder cinnamon rolls, which Mom has a horrible time staying out of. Despite her health-nut ways, cinnamon rolls are definitely her health-conscious handicap! And cinnamon rolls are safe-eats for this not-so-adventurous-eater.

Like most couples who have been married for decades, Mom and Pop go everywhere together. They’re almost linked at the hip. However, Pop is a go-go guy, who’ll jump in the car at a minute’s notice, and drive the hour or so to “town.” Mom is completely content as a homebody. A year ago, she and I decided to go on a mother-daughter trip to Alaska to see family. Without Pop. Poor Pop. He had to stay home.

Knowing she doesn’t go on major trips without Pop, maneuvering between gates, flight changes, and multiple airports was initially daunting for Mom. The added element of flying standby, with no guaranteed seats was especially alarming. However, Mom was up for the challenge and took the whole adventure in stride, 4 airports, 8 flights, at least 3-4 gate changes, flying first class for the first time, and a weather delay later. We found ways to amuse ourselves in the airports at least!

One fun fact about Mom is her Eskimo heritage. Guess that’s not P.C. to say anymore, so I’ll rephrase it by saying Yupik heritage. Either way, it’s unique. Years ago, we collectively starting calling Mom “Mo,” short for Eski-mo. Son A and B like to say their “Ama” is the “Mo with the Most” or “The Head Mo in Charge.” Here’s Mom and her grand-Mo. Cute isn’t she?

As I mentioned above, my Mo-Mama is not an adventurous eater. But with the native family, Mom screwed on her game-face and channeled her inner Andrew Zimmern. Akutaq (AKA fish ice cream) and muktuk (AKA whale skin and blubber) were the bizarre foods for these southern Moes.

Akutaq is a delicacy we’ve had before. If you offer someone akutaq, they’ll be intrigued. Offer them fish ice cream, they’ll be stand-offish. Uncle makes his akutaq by boiling white fish, carefully removing any and all bones, and squeezing the flesh until it’s like sawdust. Whip shortening and sugar until it’s fluffy and add the fish. Salmon berries are traditionally added to akutaq, but you can use any kind of berry. Uncle and Auntie like raisins in theirs. Chill it and enjoy! Yum!

On this visit, Auntie was gifted with muktuk from a relative. Muktuk is whale skin and blubber. Auntie sliced it thin, and sprinkled on garlic salt. She also slightly cooked the muktuk for us. Greasy, rubbery and stringy textured, I wondered how the Moes of Yore ate it without teeth. Muktuk was an acquired taste for us, and definitely better cooked. But as Andrew Zimmern says, “if it looks good, eat it!”

For something definitely more palatable, let’s talk about those Southern Butter Rolls! Fluffy, tender biscuit, spiraled with cinnamon spiciness, enrobed in gooey, creamy custard. What’s not to like?!

Southern Butter Rolls begin their life as a baking powder biscuit dough. Smooth out the dough just like you’re making cinnamon rolls, topped with butter and sprinkled with brown sugar ‘n’ spices. Roll up this goodness into a log, cut into slices, and pour on the buttery, cream and sweetened condensed milk custard. The Southern Butter Roll is born!

I will forewarn you. Southern Butter Rolls are good. Really good! And rich-tasting thanks to the cream, butter and sweetened condensed milk! They’re perfect for a special breakfast or brunch treat on important days like Mother’s Day or an anniversary. Here’s to mothers everywhere, both past and present, who selflessly care and unconditionally love! Thank you Mom!

Southern Butter Rolls

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A almost forgotten Southern recipe, Southern Butter Rolls are the stuff of legend. A fluffy, tender biscuit, spiraled with cinnamon spiciness, and enrobed in gooey, buttery custard. What’s not to like?! 

Recipe is adapted from The Kitchn. 

• Author: Erin Thomas
• Prep Time: About 20-25 Minutes
• Cook Time: 40-45 Minutes
• Total Time: About 1 Hour
• Yield: 12 Rolls 1x

Ingredients

Scale 1x2x3x

For the Biscuit Dough:

3 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for rolling

1 tbsp. + 1–1/2 tsp. granulated sugar

1 tbsp. + 1–1/2 tsp. baking powder

3/4 tsp. salt (table or kosher)

6 tbsp. unsalted butter, cold

3/4 cup heavy cream + 1/4 cup water*

For the Dough Filling: 

8 tbsp. (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened

1/4 cup + 2 tbsp. brown sugar (light or dark), packed

1 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 tsp. nutmeg

1/4 tsp. salt (table or kosher)

For the Cream Sauce: 

1–14 oz. can sweetened condensed milk

1–1/2 cup heavy cream + 1/2 cup water**

3/4 cup powdered sugar, sifted

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

1/4 tsp. salt (table or kosher)

1 tsp. vanilla

Instructions

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.  Lightly grease a 9 X 13″ baking pan. Set aside. 

To Make Biscuit Dough and Rolls: 

In a large bowl, stir all-purpose flour, granulated sugar, baking powder, and salt.  Cut butter into dough using a pastry cutter, two knives or your hands.  Mix until butter and dry ingredients until butter is slightly smaller than pea-sized pieces.  Add heavy cream and water.  Stir just until combined.  Add more heavy cream until dough is moist and slightly sticky.  Place dough on a floured board.  Pat dough out into a 12- by 15-inch rectangle.  Spread the softened butter on the dough’s surface. 

In a small bowl, mix brown sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Sprinkle evenly over buttered dough.  Roll dough into a log, starting on a short edge.  Pinch the seams together with your fingers.  Cut dough into 12 even slices, about 1-inch thick.  Place cut side up in the greased baking dish.  Set aside. 

To Make Cream Sauce: 

In a medium-sized saucepan over medium-high heat, combine sweetened condensed milk, heavy cream and water, powdered sugar, butter, and salt.  Constantly stir until mixture comes to a boil.  Remove from heat.  Stir in vanilla.  Pour cream mixture over the cinnamon rolls.  The cream will fill up the pan and completely cover the dough.  

Bake the rolls in the preheated oven for 40-45 minutes or until golden brown.  Place a sheet of aluminum foil underneath the baking pan to catch any overflowing drips.  Let rolls cool slightly before serving.  Rolls are best eaten on the day they are cooked. Store rolls in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.  

Notes

*1 cup of whole milk, buttermilk or half-and-half can be used.  Depending on your climate, you may need to add tablespoons of milk to biscuit dough to form a soft, moist dough. 

**2 cups of whole milk or half-and-half can be substituted. 

Nutrition

• Serving Size: 1 Roll
• Calories: 509
• Sugar: 37.6 g
• Sodium: 425 mg
• Fat: 26.1 g
• Saturated Fat: 16.3 g
• Carbohydrates: 63.1 g
• Fiber: 1 g
• Protein: 7.3 g
• Cholesterol: 80 mg